Apparently, debian maintainer tried to be a bit helpful:
Note to the tech-savy: If you are stuck in console and absolutely need to pair with yourbluetooth device have a look at /var/lib/bluetooth/
/pincodes. Please note that this mode of operation is _not_ _supported_. Don't mess with files in /var/lib/bluetooth/ unless you know what you are doing. I repeat:manually adding a pincode for a remote device is NOT SUPPORTED.
...unfortunately I could not figure pincodes format, it is not documented on the manpage, and you can't google without network, which will not connect without dbus.
I tried to initiate pairing from phone, where hcid is apparently allowed to use pincode from hcid.conf... (Why can't the same pincode be optionaly used for outgoing stuff? From what I see, I'm far from alone falling into this trap.) Unfortunately computer did not seem to be discoverable.
After long search, I managed to "hciconfig hci0 piscan"... which made computer discoverable and solved my problems. Dbus sucks, and whoever infected hcid with it should be forced to use only GPRS networking for next 10 years.